新浪尚品

　　曾经是上海普陀区唯一一家五星级酒店的宏泉丽笙酒店，如今已不再一枝独秀，而是置身于万厦之中了。酒店囊括了三家餐厅，其中，臻玉轩餐厅以其道地中式菜肴而闻名，是洽谈商务和聚餐的热点地带。

臻玉轩

　　步入桃浦路口，踏进延伸至底的酒店前厅，大理石地面和会客沙发增添了富丽堂皇之感。上楼抵达餐厅，温暖的色调和软垫座椅营造出宾至如归的舒适氛围。硬质木地板和水晶吊灯体现了酒店主人对于古典装饰的钟爱，而种类繁多令人眼花缭乱的中式菜肴却显示了主厨对于食物的热忱。餐厅主营粤菜，并延及川菜等特色菜，仅仅是从研究菜单到最后点餐就花费了我们颇多时间。由于主厨来自广东，粤菜就顺理成章成为了我们的首选，所点的大多数菜品都是粤式菜肴。

　　开启用餐序幕的是一道简单的鲜肉蘑菇汤，而汤中香菇的鲜甜令我垂涎，回味无穷。粤式名菜脆皮乳鸽火候恰到好处，软嫩的肉质配上格外酥脆的外皮，正如我们的预期。而海鲜日本豆腐恐怕是我最钟爱的菜色了，粤式的烹制手法将日本豆腐与扇贝，鲍鱼以及蟹肉相互搭配，相较于柔软的中式豆腐而言，更增添了一份滑嫩与鲜甜。我对于日本豆腐的初体验源于在上海工作时当地同事的引荐，从那之后它就成了我最常点的一道菜。唯一的小小遗憾在于，盘中的蟹肉味道似乎稍欠纯正，对于正值毛蟹的时令季节和五星级酒店的名号而言，有点略显失色。

　　接下来是一道略带辣味的海鲜，混合辛香料与墨鱼，扇贝和蘑菇混合炒制，美味依旧。延续了之前的海鲜主题，我们又点了一道独家推荐的自制焖炒海参配手工煎饼。当菜肴初端上桌时，望着切成丝状几乎辨认不出的海参，搭配了细洋葱丝，胡萝卜丝和蛋丝，我们一头雾水，不知从何下手，直到煎饼的出现才令我们解开谜团，恍然大悟。不同于我的想象，它的口感更像是馒头或是台式汉堡，整道菜用蚝油烹制，味道鲜美，健康清爽且不油腻，如此技法烹制的海参给我从未有过的味觉享受。对于从未尝试过海参的人，我强力推荐这道海参炒鲜蔬，佐以饼类食用，不需用筷子挾取，是非常好的入门菜。

　　既然置身于地道的粤菜馆，自然要点些特色点心应景。我们点了包裹着明虾和笋丁内馅的虾饺和甜口的蜜汁叉烧酥作为本次用餐的尾声。不同于传统的叉烧包，这里的蜜汁叉烧酥是卷成长条型烤制的，与西餐中的蛋卷外型有些类似，味道非常棒。

　　此时此刻，我们已然酒足饭饱，渴望片刻的缓息。幸运的是，餐厅的柔软座椅和舒适靠垫正好提供了饭后斜倚小憩一下的悠闲环境。在点了近十道菜肴之后，我们对于菜单上的丰富菜色依旧一知半解，依我愚见，最好的方法是当你有近十人的集体聚餐时，在这里订一间私人包间，点上个二十五道左右的菜肴，才算是对餐厅菜色有个大致掌握。我对于臻玉轩餐厅的其它菜肴甚至甜点都仍抱有浓厚的兴趣，期待未来有机会再次光顾，尽管酒店位于普陀区靠近中环，地理位置稍远些，当然也更显示了菜单价格的公道性，在高楼林立的商业区提供了一个轻松悠闲纾解压力的美妙氛围，也体验了更为卓越的就餐环境。(作者：Karol Ng  翻译：李亦然)

　　服务：很好

　　菜品：很好

　　环境：非常好

　　人均：200-300元

　　特色菜：自制手工海参配煎饼， 海鲜日本豆腐

　　地址：上海市普陀区桃浦路210号

　　电话： 021-53559999

　　At one time the only five-star hotelin Putuo district, the Radisson Hong Quan hotel is now one of many. The hotelboasts three restaurants, and Ü is still very popular with Chinese locals, ahot spot for business and government functions

　　I walked in the Taopu Rd. entrance and entered asprawling lobby of marble floors and sofas. Then we went upstairs to therestaurant whose warm colors and cushioned seats made a very relaxing andwelcoming environment. The dark hard wood floors and crystal chandeliersreflected the hotel owner's love of antiques, while the extensive menu ofvarious Chinese cuisines reflected the chef's love of food. We spent a goodamount of time studying the menu, poring over the Sichuan, Cantonese and local specialties tofinally order. The Cantonese dishes are known to be quite good since the chefis from Guangdong,thus the majority of our meal was Cantonese。

　　We started with a simple Chinesesoup of pork and mushrooms – my goodness was the broth savory and tasty fromthe shitake mushrooms. Their crispy pigeon, a Cantonese specialty, was verywell done, tender meat and extra crispy skin, just the way we like it. The Japanesetofu with seafood was possibly my favorite dish of the meal. More tender andflavorful than soft Chinese tofu, the Japanese tofu complemented the scallops,abalone, and crab meat very well in this Cantonese style dish. I had never evenheard of "Japanese tofu" until coming to Shanghai and being introduced to it by mylocal coworkers, but it has become one of my favorite things to order. I was alittle disappointed that the crab meat in this dish was imitation, a very bigsurprise since it was the middle of hairy crab season and we were in afive-star hotel。

　　Next we had another seafood dish,this time a little spicy. It was delicious all the same, a mix of spices stirfried with cuttlefish, scallops, and mushrooms. Going along with the seafoodtheme, we ordered the house-recommended Homemade Braised Sea CucumberStir-Fried served with Pancakes. When it first arrived to the table, we had noidea what the dish was since the sea cucumber was sliced and unrecognizable andmixed with chives, carrot, and egg. Then the "pancakes" arrived andwe figured it out. They were not what I expected, more like the steamed bunsyou get with Taiwanese-style burgers. The dish was fantastic, healthy andlightly cooked in an oyster sauce, and I had never eaten sea cucumber cookedlike this before. For those who have never tried sea cucumber, this was a goodintroductory dish because they're stir-fried with lots of vegetables and servedwith bread, so you don't have to worry about picking them up with yourchopsticks。

　　Since we were in a restaurant thatspecialized in Cantonese food, we had to order some Dim Sum as well. We got thesteamed prawn dumplings "ha gao", or "xia jiao" inMandarin, which were full of tasty prawns and bamboo shoots, and the barbecuepork puffs as a sweet snack. Instead of a traditional steamed bun, the barbecuepork was rolled in wrappers to look like egg rolls and baked. Pretty good, butit tasted like something I could have gotten at Bi Feng Tang, so nothing towrite home about。

　　By this point, all of us werestuffed and needed a break. Luckily, the soft chairs and cushioned seats made Üa good environment to linger after our meal. We barely made progress on themenu even though we ordered almost 10 dishes, so the best way to go back iswhen you have a group of ten or more and you can reserve a private dining roomand order about 25 dishes. I would love to go back to try out their otherdishes and even dessert, but the hotel can be far for some since it is locatedin Putuo, within the Middle Ring road. Then again, the location allows the menuto be so reasonably priced, and it gives a more relaxing and stress-freeenvironment that makes an even better dining experience。

　　Service quality:  very good

　　Food quality:  very good

　　Environment:  excellent

　　Price per head (RMB)：  200-300

　　Feature dish or menu:  Homemadebraised sea cucumber with pancakes;  Japanesetofu with seafood