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　　在伦敦的美食圣殿中，Moro餐厅赢得了备受推崇的地位。Moro的灵感源于餐厅老板——一对名为Sam的夫妇，他们试图将安达卢西亚传统美食与充满异域情调的中东、北非风味融合在一起，并取得了卓越的成就。Moro坐落于繁华的Exmouth Market大街，距霓虹闪耀的伦敦西区仅投石之遥。在这条街上，来自世界各地的街头美食势力各据一方(营业时间为周一至周四12点到17点；周五11点至18点；周六9点至16点)，而位于其中的Moro则是这个烹饪艺术宝库中的冠上明珠。

Moro餐厅

　　透过巨大的玻璃外墙，餐厅的开放式布局一览无余，摩洛哥风格铺装的内饰令人联想到中东的集市。迈入门槛，朦胧柔暖的灯光中，眼前逐渐清晰的是一排排硬橡木餐桌；开放型厨房延伸至就餐区，肉桂、丁香与辣椒煨出的阵阵香气扑鼻而来。这香气也在暗示：让Moro成功的核心理念正是各种厨艺的融合。

　　宽阔的吧台横跨了餐厅的一整侧。客人们可以在此享用一杯金铜色的雪利酒，再来片味道浓郁、口感肥腻的生火腿，或是一段热乎乎的“Morcilla”(亦即西班牙血肠)，搭配上一角美味的私家酸面包，打发正餐之前的慵懒时光。

　　餐厅的菜单应季更换，毫不谦虚的自称所有食材皆为伊比利亚半岛及周边最新鲜的产品。而Moro的确始终遵循着“融合”的基本理念，在西班牙传统经典美食的基础上，融入摩尔式民族风味精髓(有时也许是无名小食)的创新成果。

　　菜品的西班牙风格强烈，只需稍加留意，这份菜单就能在第一时间就吊起你的胃口：开胃小吃一栏永远都有西班牙辣香肠与生火腿这样的经典选择，蒜香甜椒烤鲈鱼与酱香羊肉串(滴着甜雪利酒浓汁的烤肉)则是任何南地中海高级餐厅里的必备佳肴。

　　真正让Moro从众多餐馆中脱颖而出的，是其对北非菜品的锐意创新。增加了孜然芳香的Bessera，或称摩洛哥豌豆汤，口感极为浓郁醇厚。烤鸡以新鲜香菜与Muhummra(一种由大蒜、柠檬、孜然与甜椒制成的蘸酱)为佐料，搭配上香喷喷的烤加吉鱼。这道原创菜品热情四溢，异国风情浓郁欲滴。我的最爱当属冬季菜单中的必点菜品，大名鼎鼎的“馋嘴肥鸭”。这道招牌菜的灵感源自一种摩洛哥贵族宴会，它不断逗引你的食欲，让人赞叹不已：巨大的陶瓷浅盘里，底层是厚厚的鹰嘴豆肉饭，其上覆以摆放精巧的一层层肉桂皮烤鸭，再搭配上嘎嘣脆黄油酥皮面包；酸甜的石榴酱与冰爽的薄荷酸奶既点缀了菜肴，也平衡了油腻，实为冬季绝佳之选。

　　若是这些创意十足的融合菜品还不足以引诱你的味蕾来尽情撒欢，那Moro无比丰富却价格实惠的各色美酒也许能扮演这“最后的压轴戏”。Moro始终专注于伊比利亚半岛酒文化，其精选的葡萄酒、起泡酒及雪利酒，涵盖了从享誉世界的名品到地方独有的私酿等各个种类，广博程度可谓冠绝伦敦。服务员更是随叫随到，为你提供专业合理的佐餐用酒建议。

　　我给您的唯一忠告是：早点订餐。如此诱人的佳肴美酒与迷人的用餐环境，若不未雨绸缪，想有位子可难啦！

　　服务： 非常好

　　菜品： 很好

　　环境： 很好

　　人均： 10-20英镑(相当于150-300元人民币)

　　地址：英国伦敦ExmouthMarket大街34-36号

　　Moro has gained a distinguishedplace in the pantheon of Londoneateries. The brainchild of married owners Sam and Sam, the vision of bringingtogether classical Andalucian cooking with the exotic flavours of the MiddleEast and North Africa is achieved here parexcellence. Nestled in the bustling streets of Exmouth Market, a stone’s throwaway from the bright lights of the West End and in amongst the den of stallsoffering street fare from around the world (open weekdays 12-5 and Friday andSaturday from 11am to 6 pm and 9am to 4pm respectively)， Moro is the crowningjewel of a gastronomic treasure trove。

　　Through the large, glass frontedfacade, one can peer into the open plan, Moroccan tiled interior reminiscent ofa bazaar. A step across the threshold and into the dimly lit interior revealslines of hard oak dining tables and the scent of cinnamon, cloves and paprikasimmering in the kitchen, which opens into the dining room, the aroma hintingat the culinary fusion that is at the heart of the restaurant’s success。

　　The bar which straddles the side ofthe room allows patrons to indulge in a glass of copper tinted sherry and apiece of dark, fatty Jamon or warm Morcilla (Spanish blood sausage, in case youwere wondering) served with delicious homemade sourdough bread, before takingtheir seats。

　　The menu varies according to season,boasting only the freshest produce from the Iberian peninsular and beyond. Itdoes, however, always adhere to its guiding principle of combining old Spanishclassics with a twist of the best, and in some cases more obscure, offeringsfrom the Moorish culinary tradition. At first glance the menu seems instantlyappealing, if slightly unremarkable, for a Spanish eatery; Chorizo and Jamonare ever present as starters, and the wood roasted sea bass with piqillopeppers and garlic and the charcoal grilled lamb with churrasco sauce (areduction of sweet sherry and pan drippings from the grilled meat) could be afixture at any quality Southern Mediterranean establishment. 。

　　It is the North African twist,however, which truly distinguishes Moro from the crowd. The Bessera, or theMoroccan split pea soup, is spiced with fragrant cumin and has a tremendousdepth of flavour. The roasted chicken with fresh coriander and the muhummra (adipping sauce of garlic, lemon, cumin and sweet peppers) served with thegrilled sea bream make for dishes dripping with originality, warmth and exoticappeal. My personal favourite, and a ‘must have’ on the winter seasonal menu,is the grandly named ‘Duck Fattee’. Inspired by a feast presented to Moroccanpotentates, this signature dish tantalizes and amazes. Served in a largeceramic share platter, a rich bed of chickpea pilaf interplays beautifully withlayers of wood roasted duck seasoned with cinnamon and the crunch of butterbrushed crisp breads. Garnished with sweet pomegranate molasses and cool mintinfused yogurt which cut through the dish’s heavy base, it is an absolutewinner。

　　If this inspired combination is notenough to tantalize your taste buds into a visit, the impressive and reasonablypriced wine list may do the trick. Focusing exclusively on Iberian tipples, theselection of wine, cava and sherry, ranging from the world renowned to theregionally obscure, is comprehensive and unparalleled in the capital. Staff arealways on hand with appropriate drink suggestions to accompany courses。

　　My only caveat is to book early; theingredient led comfort food and charming ambiance make getting a tabledifficult for the ill prepared!

　　-- by Will Murphey

　　Service quality:  excellent

　　Food quality:  very good

　　Price per head (RMB)：  150-300

　　Environment:  very good

　　(作者：Will Murphey 翻译：孙祥)