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园丁园 有机美味来问春

http://www.sina.com.cn 2011年04月02日 16:56 Best Food in China美食中国网

  园丁园鸟巢餐厅在地点的挑选概念上是非常明智的,简而言之,园丁园餐厅位于北京奥林匹克公园鸟巢内。地标明显,便于寻找,然而进入体育场前却需要一项额外的步骤,由于鸟巢的进出管理严格,当您抵达体育馆时,会有餐厅的招待员出来迎接您,引导您去往餐厅。从这个角度讲,您只要进店用餐,就能免费出入鸟巢,免去了平常人均五十元的门票费。

园丁园餐厅位于北京奥林匹克公园鸟巢内园丁园餐厅位于北京奥林匹克公园鸟巢内

  位于体育馆三层的餐厅,正面面向体育场,提供了用餐者俯瞰眺望,享受体育场的灯光和美景的绝佳位置。我们的来临正值冬季,至此我们有幸一览雪天里的公园。餐厅还想出了夏日开放一侧餐厅,在通往体育场的走道上设置露天餐桌的经营策略,为食客提供与众不同的户外用餐享受。

  餐厅提供的所有食物均为有机食物,无论肉类,蔬菜或其它产品均来自园丁园集团的有机农场,大部分位于北京市内或近郊。餐厅菜品集结各色中国传统菜系之精华,兼具有机养生之特色。

状如鸟巢的凉拌菜状如鸟巢的凉拌菜

  我们的开胃菜是一盘状如鸟巢的凉拌菜(餐厅开创了二十多种各式各样的鸟巢开胃菜),由圆白菜丝,海蜇丝,淡菜,紫菜和胡萝卜丝所制成,口感清脆,与西餐中的沙拉有异曲同工之妙。一盘凉菜,作为用餐的前奏。另一道有机菜肴貌似一枚中国邮票,实则为土豆泥胡萝卜豆芽紫甘蓝所制成的蔬菜糕,形状宛如一枚中式印章,将2008年奥运会的标志雕刻于表面。这道菜依然有些沙拉的意味,只是味道更为清淡,比上一道鸟巢更为柔软,极易入口。第三道凉菜名为“水立方”,是用鸡高汤烹制,混合了海螺海胆的鱼肉慕斯,口味清淡,口感柔滑绵软,没有西方人难以适应的独特腥味。背景投射的蓝色灯光完全提升了整道菜肴的观赏价值,宛如一件精致的艺术品。

  与冷盘相搭配的饮料,我们选择了新鲜番茄汁,口感温热,原料自然是来自园丁园农场的有机番茄。不同于一般消费市场的产品,这种番茄汁是无均质的,没有一般罐装饮料的盐分添加,口感更为清新香甜,也与菜肴搭配呼应。虽然餐厅亦提供酒品选择,但我们依旧钟情于优质的新鲜果汁。

  作为一家坐落于奥林匹克公园内的餐厅,与之匹配的第一道热菜自然是著名的北京烤鸭。有机天然的鸭肉融合专业精湛的厨艺,十分出色。鸭皮柔软,鸭肉酥脆,酱汁纯正,配菜新鲜。与之搭配的新鲜罗勒叶,赋予了菜肴独特的浓香,在传统配菜之外另辟蹊径,妙不可言。这是一次百分之百美妙绝伦的鸭肉飨宴,绝对可与京城其它餐厅的北京烤鸭相媲美。

牛小排佐花椰菜牛小排佐花椰菜

  接下来是牛小排佐花椰菜(为了避免重复,在此注明所有菜肴的原材料均为有机种植的新鲜食材)和太湖白鱼。两道菜肴都格外出色,牛肉柔嫩却不失口感。盘中的花椰菜没有经过酱汁的过度烹调,保留了蔬菜的原味与清甜。鱼肉鲜味十足,没有过咸或过甜,肉质极佳,柔滑细密且比一般中餐里的鱼肉更为完整。这是我最钟情的一道菜肴,如此美味令我垂涎三尺,毫不留情的将它一扫而光。这条鱼至少两公斤重,光我个人就消灭了近半条,也与同桌的六个人公平分享了其它菜肴,整桌的美味让我无法停下自己的筷子。

鸟巢菜肴鸟巢菜肴

  已然酒足饭饱的我们,赫然发现了餐桌上又增添了四道菜,海蘑菇海参鹌鹑蛋汤,油炸圆白菜,另一道鸟巢菜肴,以及猪肉茄子饺。海参汤和圆白菜出人意料的清爽,相较于其他餐厅更为清脆可口,不失风味,也迅速被一扫而空。第二道鸟巢菜肴更为用心与丰富,鸟巢的模型是用油炸蛋丝所铸成的底托,里面是面包粉裹油炸大虾和整块鹅肝,香甜酥脆。饺子的外皮软嫩有弹性,内馅是透明的猪肉丁和香脆的油炸茄子。

  按照中餐的传统,所有菜肴都置于桌上圆盘的外围,客人可在用餐过程中任意转动圆盘选取食物。然而经过了三个半小时的美食马拉松后,桌面上已然杯盘狼藉,每位食客都心满意足的的离去。

餐厅现代的设计餐厅现代的设计

  不必多言,这里的所有菜肴都是美妙的杰作,独特地理位置和创新菜肴的集合,加之顶级优质的原料和专业精湛的烹饪,无论是旅游观光,团队用餐,亦或仅仅渴望一份印象深刻的用餐体验,园丁园鸟巢餐厅都是您毋庸置疑的绝佳之选。只要轻松预订,就准备好吃到撑吧。

  服务:非常好

  菜品:非常好

  环境:非常好

  特色菜:各色鸟巢元素菜肴

  人均:200 – 300 元

  地址:北京朝阳区北辰东路住总集团对面鸟巢1号安检门

  电话:010 –52839121

  All of the restaurant’s offeringsare organic, with the meat, vegetables, and other products all coming from theconsortium’s own organic farms, mostly located in and around Beijing。

  There a number of clever (at least seeminglyto the one who writes them) things that can be said about the concept oflocation in the restaurant business, but the simple fact is that Yuandingyuanis located inside the Bird’s Nest in Beijing’sOlympic Park. The restaurant is of easy to find, but access to the venue, whilestraightforward, requires an extra step – upon arrival at the stadium, arestaurant greeter must be sent out to meet you, as entry to the Bird’s Nest isrestricted. Look at it this way, however – you get free admittance to the venuesimply by dining, whereas it costs everyone else 50 Yuan to simply get in andwalk around。

  The entire western wall of therestaurant, situated on the 3rd floor of the stadium, is open to the arena,which provides lighting and a great view. We visited in the winter, where wehad a view of the snow park. According to the management, in the summer theside of the restaurant can be opened up and tables placed on the pathways ofthe stadium itself for an outdoor experience。

  All of the restaurant’s offeringsare organic, with the meat, vegetables, and other products all coming from theconsortium’s own organic farms, mostly located in and around Beijing. The restaurant features varioustraditional Chinese dishes, combined with a few original creations。

  We started with an appetiser in theshape of a Bird’s Nest (the restaurant features more than 20 types of Bird’sNest appetisers in total, all different), composed of shredded cabbage,jellyfish, osmanthus mussels, nori, and carrots. It was crunchy and had asolid, saladlike feeling. Served cold, it was a good beginning to the meal.Another original creation of sorts, we sampled a “Chinese stamp” – a cake madeof mashed potatoes, carrot, bean sprouts and purple cabbage, formed into theshape of a Chinese seal and inscribed with the 2008 Olympics Seal on top. Itwas also saladlike, but had a much lighter, chewier texture than the Bird’sNest. The third cold dish was a “Water Cube” – a fish mousse infused withchicken broth, sea snail, and sea urchin. It was mild and had a pleasant,smooth texture without the bizarre pungency that some westerners seem to findunappealing. Served backlight by a blue light, it was definitely a conversationpiece。

  To go with the cold dishes, we wentfor the fresh tomato juice – served hot, and of course from organic tomatoesgrown on the YDY farms. Unlike the normally commercially available product, itwas unhomogenised, and didn’t have the ridiculous amount of added salt thatmany of the box-and-can varieties have, making it a much lighter, sweeter drinkthat went well with the rest of the food. Wine was available, but the juice wasof such quality that we opted to stick with it for the duration of the meal。

  The first hot dish we were servedwas Peking Duck – fitting, for a restaurant located in the Olympic Park. Theorganic (naturally) duck was excellent, and prepared masterfully. The skin wastender and the meat crispy, the sauce just right and the vegetables fresh. Theaddition of fresh basil leaves, extremely strong in flavour, was an interestingtwist on the traditional accompanying vegetables – it was overall a 10 out of10 duck experience, definitely on par with any of the other Peking Duckofferings I’ve sampled in the city。

  Next out was a beef short-rib andbroccoli combo (as to avoid repeating myself every paragraph, just keep in mindthat all dishes listed are, of course composed of fully organically growningredients) and a Taihu Lake White Fish (a sizeable Cyprinid about 40cm in length). Both dishes were verysubstantial, the beef tender yet not overly soft. Both it and the broccoli wereserved without sauce as they were flavourful enough themselves. The fish wassufficiently tangy without being overly salty or sweet, and had an excellenttexture overall, denser and with more structural integrity than most fish offeringsin Chinese cuisine. It was my favourite dish overall, and I simply destroyed itwith my appetite. It must have weight at least 2 kilos, and despite our partycomprising six persons, I personally most likely ate more than half it, inaddition to having my fair share of everything else. I simply could not put mychopsticks down。

  Already well into the meal (and thefish), we suddenly found our table bombarded with four more courses – seamushroom and sea cucumber and quail egg soup, fried cabbage, another Bird’sNest dish, and pork and aubergine dumplings. The sea cucumber soup and cabbagewere both surprisingly light yet held a good deal of crunchiness when comparedwith their counterparts at other restaurants. Neither lacked in flavour,however, and both quickly disappeared from the table. The second Bird’s Nestwas a much more complicated affair – the “nest” itself was composed of a matrixof fried egg filaments which had been formed into a torus which contained abreaded fried prawn and whole goose liver – both sweet and crunchy. Thedumplings were soft and chewy on the outside, with the insides being a mixtureof succulent pork and crunchy fried aubergine。

  In typical Chinese tradition, theremaining dishes (and my beloved fish) were spun around the table until almostall plates were clean after a marathon three and a half hours – all partiesleft very full。

  It goes without saying that thepresentation of all dishes was great. The combination of unique location andinnovative dishes, along with top-quality ingredients and preparationdefinitely make YDY an excellent choice to bring a tour group, visitors fromout of town, or anyone you may want to impress. Make reservations, and prepareto eat your fill。

  -- by Moy Hau

  Service quality: excellent

  Food quality: excellent

  Environment: very good

  Feature dish or menu: Varietyof Bird’s Nests

  Price per head (RMB): 200-300

  (作者:Moy Hau  翻译:李亦然)

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