新浪尚品

　　步入杭州西子湖四季酒店，只见四周垂杨细柳、曲径通幽、水波潋滟、庭院隐现，雕梁画栋的楼台亭阁完美地演绎了江南庭院式的建筑风格，一勾一勒，独具匠心。更令人感叹的是，此处清雅静谧之意境似乎只在古卷轴里才见到过，完全不同于每逢假日就人头攒动的西湖景区。酒店毗邻西湖的西侧，灵秀的西子湖水被这不可多得的幽静深深吸引，潺潺环绕而不肯离去。这水，便成为了酒店的一部分。即便在我们拜访时客房客满，酒店的各个角落也很安静。大可放松身心，尽享曼妙的午餐时光。

尽享曼妙的美食时光

　　四季酒店坐落在金沙港以北，近水楼台的酒店中餐厅便以此得名为金沙厅。金沙主餐厅可供80人就餐，另设带有户外平台的贵宾厅，室外园林景致的便一口气流淌到餐桌上，令人赞叹。每个厅都有独一无二的主题，从房间主色调就可见一斑，喜庆的中国红、贵气的雪青色或是奢华的金黄色。如果十一、二个人聚会，带开放式厨房的厅应该是上佳之选，其中一个比较特殊的厅用宽大的西式长桌将传统的中式圆桌取而代之，正所谓中西合璧。悠然地坐在餐厅的沙发上，端起奶白色的茶杯，仿佛时光倒流，身处百年前的江南园林之中。

　　金沙主餐厅的设计大气典雅，暗棕色的木结构与窗外的绿树浓荫相映成趣，天花、桌椅、地板中，无不沉淀着深厚的东方文化，同时也混合了时尚的元素。来自上海的大厨们为了给客人演绎健康的杭帮菜、上海菜以及粤菜，还会跑到城市周边农家去物色当地原生态的食材。这里正宗的自制点心在杭城并不多见。美味总有茶相伴，餐厅的中央有一茶亭，整齐摆放着几排茶罐，锡制的茶壶很精美，在这里使用盖碗来喝龙井茶也是件有趣的事情。

冷菜三拼

　　谈笑间美食已至，首先是冷菜三拼，有蟹肉蒸蛋，一块散发出诱人气味的烤肉，以及用当地的时蔬马兰头做成的豆腐卷，每年三月春雨滋润，正是吃马兰头的好时节。芝士鹅肝焗响螺令人眼前一亮，直接在响螺里焗出香沉醇厚的美味，细细品味，顺滑且入味饱满。接着是蒙古酱烤小羊排配鱼香茄子丁，羊排表面酥脆，深层的肉质粉嫩娇软。西式的羊排做法与中式的鱼香茄子混搭，不乏新意且符合本地人的口味。茄子带有稍许辛辣，入口即化，缓缓地释放出奇异的芳香，味道温和均衡。大厨对其中的奥秘笑而不答，留给我们一个美味的念想。

蟹粉三拼

　　虽然我不是“海鲜控”，不过强烈建议到这里要品尝一下这道蟹粉三拼。其中有蟹肉土司，豆花蟹肉，以及一枚盛有蟹肉的煮鸡蛋——名副其实的蟹肉蛋。尽享极鲜珍馐而不会被顽固的蟹壳为难，确实是一种幸福的感觉。临近尾声，蜜豆水晶粿给我们带来了晶莹剔透的绿色体验，时蔬清脆可口，虾仁玉白鲜嫩，鸡肉甘醇细腻，蘑菇鲜香四溢，美味与健康兼得。

　　餐后甜点固然为设宴飨客所不可或缺。烘奶布丁的表面被一层香脆的糖膜覆盖，加剧了味蕾对甜味的渴望，而此时一对蓝莓正在水晶般的糖膜上翩翩起舞。三层的布丁和蟹粉三拼印证了 “三”在西方意识形态中的吉祥寓意。而中国文化还讲究好事成双，果不其然，布丁旁边还安静地坐着一个茉莉花茶冰激凌。圆滚滚的冰欺凌顶上点缀着一根薄荷叶，像一对长长的耳朵，要是再加两段面条上去，就是一调皮的兔斯基。一直颇为流行的冷热搭配的甜点令人感到很甜，很满足。

　　服务：很好

　　菜品：很丰富

　　环境：静谧优雅

　　人均：300-400元

　　特色菜：

　　芝士鹅肝焗响螺， 蒙古酱烤小羊排，鱼香茄子丁， 蟹粉三拼， 蜜豆水晶粿， 龙井烘奶布甸伴茉莉花茶冰激凌

　　地址：中国杭州灵隐路5号

　　电话：86-571-88298888

　　Going through thegate in front of the Four Seasons Hangzhou at West Lake,you are greeted by the unmistakable white wall and black roofs of the local“Jiangnan” style architecture. But more importantly, you are greeted by a senseof refinement and tranquility that seems to only exist in articles about thehistory of Hangzhou, not in modern Hangzhou, with its crowds of people along West Lake.The Four Seasons hotel is, actually, located on the western side of West Lake,and has integrated the Lake- the feeling andthe actual water- into their grounds. Although they were fully occupied on theday of our visit, the hotel was still peaceful, quiet enough to provide respitefrom bustling Hangzhouor just a quiet table for lunch。

　　Jin Sha,literally “Golden Sand” and the name of the bay the hotel is situated on, isalso the name of Four Seasons Hotel’s Chineserestaurant. Besides a dining hall that seats 80, they have 11 private rooms.These private rooms are, simply put, incredible. The design work is impeccableand each room has its own unique style. Some rooms are decorated in lush reds,others in grey and purple, other in gold. Rooms that seat 10 or 12 have openkitchens, and one room even has a long, rectangular table instead of the roundChinese style table. These rooms all have stunning views of the grounds in thehotel, which are reminiscent of a classic Jiangnan-style garden, like the onesyou might have seen in Suzhou。

　　The main dininghall is spacious and elegant, with the burgundy and dark wood walls offset bylarge windows facing lush green gardens. The cuisine is the work of a chef fromShanghai, and features authentic Hangzhou and Shanghaicuisine, as well as Cantonese dishes, such as dim sum, which is one thing Ipersonally have found hard to find in Hangzhou。

　　We were given gaiwans for tea to be filled with any one ofthe teas from their tea station. This tea station comes complete with jars forstoring tea, and a copper vessel for water。

　　The meal startedwith some appetizers, like a steamed egg with crab meat and morsels of BBQpork, and a local green (“malantou”) wrapped in tofu. The malantou is availableonly in spring and tasted fresh。

　　After theappetizer, we tried a sea whelk with cheese and goose liver filling, which wasliterally a sea shell with the filling baked right in it- the first time I haveseen a dish presented like this. Besides the impressive presentation, thefilling was creamy and filling. We also tried pan-fried baby lamb chops withsautéed eggplant in chili garlic sauce. The lamb chops were flavorful andperfectly seared on the outside, still pink on the inside. The eggplant that itcame with, also known as yuxiang qiezi, is a classic dish, but the chef hasreally brought this dish to new heights. He wouldn't share his secret, but his“twist” on this dish made it the highlight of the meal- the soft eggplant in aslightly spicy, slightly tangy marinade was wonderfully balanced and delicious。

　　For those like mewho do not readily embrace seafood, I urge you to try one of the crab dishes.They have crab meat with toast, crab meat in a hard-boiled egg, and a crab meatand tofu sauce. In every dish, the crab flavor is brought out wonderfully, andall without you having to crack open a single crab leg. Near the end of themeal, we shared healthy steamed crystal dumplings with a filling of crispy,fresh vegetables, shrimp, chicken, and mushroom。

　　A treat fordessert, was a wonderful pudding covered by a crystallized layer of meltedsugar, a la crème brulee. But to top it all off, two blueberries sat waitingabove this layer proving the time tested ideology that good things come inthrees, be it three ways to eat a magnificent crab filling or three layers in apudding. The pudding doesn't come alone though, a scoop of jasmine tea icecream topped with a double leafed mint leaf, which protrudes from it like apair of bunny ears, accompanies it. The warm and cold desserts togethercomplement each very well and leave you feeling not only sweetened, butsatisfied。

　　--By Danielle Hochstetter,Richard Fox

　　Service quality: very good

　　Food quality: excellent

　　Environment: excellent

　　Price per head (RMB)： 300-400

　　Feature dish:

　　Baked whole sea whelk with goose liver and cheese

　　Pan-fried baby lamb chop with sauteed eggplant in chiligarlic sauce

　　Combination of crab meat platter

　　Steamed crystal dumpling filled with river shrimp, driedmushroom and chicken

　　Longjingcream pudding served with jasmine tea ice cream

　　(作者：Danielle Hochstetter/RichardFox  翻译：林若飞)