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菋道 绮丽的美味之道

http://www.sina.com.cn 2011年04月02日 15:39 Best Food in China美食中国网

  低调奢华的选择与古典优雅的品味正在杭城的空气中酝酿出新的味觉元素。新兴的商圈交易甚盛,万物所聚,大有再造开元盛世之魄力;同时,迅速繁荣的美食文化正在与许多久负盛名的国际化都市比肩。仅从食物的角度来说,现今的二线城市可以令所有美食爱好者各得其所。无论是倍受喜爱的街边小摊,从兜里掏出几块零花钱就能安抚一下舌根下贪婪的唾液腺;还是把美食当做艺术品的特色餐厅,老饕们便在此寻觅心中理想美味的现实踪影。至此不能不提到杭城里的一个新亮点,即杭州洲际酒店内的菋道餐厅。

体验国内最精致地道的地中海美味体验国内最精致地道的地中海美味

  在等待体验菋道餐厅美味大餐的日子里,数着日历上慢吞吞爬行的数字着实是一种精神上的摧残,正所谓佳期难得,好事多磨。当体验国内最精致地道的地中海美味的梦想终成现实,步入巨大球形建筑里的大堂,菋道餐厅的优雅气质初露端倪。数日耐心等待换来丰厚的回报,心中不由暗喜。餐厅柔和的光线悠然地蔓延进视野,在眼前投射出一幅井井有条且富有节奏感的画面,餐厅的服务员正在为客人们布置餐具,娴熟精确的动作不带出一点声响,安静地让双耳不知所措。餐厅里所有的细节都在行政总厨Tarkan Özdemir掌握之中,这位在洲际饭店集团有着传奇经历的土耳其人,正在用通俗易懂地方式指挥他的团队为每位客人提供细致入微的服务。

  美食之旅当然从餐前面包开始,烘焙面包很有嚼劲,配以西班牙橄榄和新鲜香草等调味。橘香芝士与酒店自制的全麦面包卷搭配起来口味绝佳。美食接连而至,服务员的专业素质令人不禁啧啧称叹,无论是添加茶水还是拂去餐巾上的面包屑,都让客人可以100%的专注于品味美食,其他的事情一概不需要考虑。毋庸置疑,在那些对细节相当较真的老饕们眼里,与一些致力于提供优雅就餐环境的餐厅相比较,菋道餐厅的表现是独一无二的。

娇嫩的蟹肉菜肴娇嫩的蟹肉菜肴

  娇嫩的蟹肉挞挞层叠于盘子中央,被四周的茴香冻汤浸润,藏红花奶冻混合其中。鲜美蟹肉与源于波斯的藏红花完美结合,为今天的晚餐定下了芬芳浓郁的基调。同桌的朋友点了菋道沙拉(烤蔬菜、鹅肝批、银鱼柳、黑松菌和帕尔玛火腿),从他们愉悦的表情可以知道,这是引发人们强烈品尝欲望的一道菜。另一道令我眼前一亮的菜肴是剑鱼串(茴香拉咕肉、土豆丸、藏红花汁),多种味觉的混合就像唱诗班里不同的声部一样,每一部分都以各自独特的个性存在,但同时以最和谐的状态共同完成对美的诠释。谷饲和牛牛柳表现非凡(配以煎鹅肝、炒京葱、土豆饼和马德拉汁),将席间的气氛再度升华,精心备制的牛肉上惊艳地点缀一小块煎鹅肝,口感甘香。随后如约而至的甜品奏响了盛宴中结尾的乐章,选择之一是杏仁糖蛋糕(杏仁糕、青苹果雪葩、棉花糖和苹果脆片),而最为惊喜之处便是红莓蛋糕朱古力(巧克力球,果仁以及波旁香草雪糕),它的样子就像是一个微缩版的洲际酒店,里面暗藏着香醇甜蜜的惊喜。

杏仁糖蛋糕杏仁糖蛋糕

  如果将萦绕在脑袋里的美味思绪加以提炼,便是不尽奢华且无可挑剔。但这些浮躁的词语和令人难以忘怀的切身体验相比,都变得虚弱无力。可以想象,这份深受食客喜爱的菜单,是厨师们从几十道精品菜肴中严格斟选的精华呈现。至此,我觉得这篇文章应该以这样的语气结尾:杭州洲际酒店能为任何一个追求卓越用餐体验的人实现最美味的心愿。

  服务:很好

  味道:很好

  环境:高端聚会

  特色菜:

  蟹肉挞挞,无壳蜗牛,香滑栗子汤,谷饲和牛牛柳,红莓蛋糕朱古力

  地址:杭州市解放东路2号杭州洲际酒店

  电话:0571 8981 0000

  An element of high taste - combined withthe growing power of choice - is becoming more evident every day in the city ofHangzhou, China. Along with bustling shoppingdistricts and entertainment venues offering world-class attractions in justabout every imaginable genre, there is also a rapidly emerging food culturethat already rivals many of the world's most renowned international cities. Asfor the food itself, today's modern Chinese second-tier city is offeringeverything; starting from the most beloved basic street fare at prices thatoften equal little more than pocket change; all the way up the gourmet echelon,bringing forth the best in fine dining, with as much sophistication as onewould expect from the world's top western locales with centuries-oldreputations as culinary centers of the universe. With that in mind, it's onlyfair to say that in Hangzhou,a star has been born, and it can be found inside the newly-opened SensesRestaurant at the InterContinental Hotel Hangzhou。

  Before making our visit to experience a veryspecial dinner at Senses for ourselves, it was sheer torture watching the daysfall off the calendar, as the moment of truth slowly crept closer... and ourhunger for sampling some of China'smost refined and excellent western dining would become a reality. However,anticipation really is its own reward, and we were certainly rewarded for ourpatience, as we stepped into the enormous lobby of the iconic sphere-shapedbuilding, and walked towards the restaurant entrance. As our eyes adjusted tothe interior lighting, a bright focal point became quite evident, as a team ofthe hotel's culinary staff were swiftly assembling and crafting individualplates for customers, without making any discernible sounds. Their movementswere smooth, fluid, and masterfully guided by the watchful eye of ExecutiveChef Tarkan Özdemir, whose passion for food, along with his impressivelong-term history as an influential member of the Intercontinental HotelGroup's legendary culinary professionals, could clearly be understood byonlookers as he calmly instructed and led the team to plate each individualorder flawlessly。

  Our meal started with oven-warm breadsaccompanied by an assortment of condiments such as Kalamata olive tapanade, anda citrus butter that was superb complement to home made whole-grain rolls. Asfood began to arrive, the first things we noticed were the extremely attentiveand well-trained staff, as their service level took us all by surprise. Withoutbeing intrusive, waiters crumbed the table and refilled water glasses, andthroughout the meal, it was easy to see that anyone with experience in finedining settings would have no trouble appreciating the service touches thatmake the experience truly unique from typical venues that claim to cater tothose who desire a high level of cuisine in an appropriate environment。

  Adelicate crab tartar piled into a bowl, and surrounded by chilled fennel soupand saffron chili semi-freddo, started things off nicely The marriage ofsaffron and delicate crab flavors were a great way to start the dinner, and setthe tone for the night as well. Some of the other guests at the table had thegourmet salad (grilled Mediterranean veggies, foie gras terrine, home curedanchovies, black truffle, Parma ham, crispy goat cheese) instead, and theirexpressions of pure pleasure were enough to make me wish I had ordered thisdish as well. Another course in the dinner that really caught my attention wasthe swordfish kebab (baby fennel ragout, potato gnocchi, saffron sauce) with acompletely balanced and inspired medley of flavors that didn't overpower asthey made their statement on the palate. Along with this assortment of strikingdishes was the grain fed Wagyu beef tenderloin (pan seared foie gras, sautéedleeks, potato pan cake, madeira jus) plate, a perfectly prepared piece of beefwith a generously sectioned knob of foie gras proudly perched on top. Finally,to finish things off, desserts were brought out for us to marvel at. One of thesweet selections was Eve’s apple (almond praline gateaux, green apple sorbet,marshmallows, crisp apple cubes) for some of the guests, and an incredibleKubbe (chocolate dome, macerated raspberries, crisp nuts feuillantine, bourbonvanilla ice cream) that resembled the building we were inside of, and held asweet surprise within!

  In just a few words, to summarize theexperience we shared on that night: the entire meal was spectacular andflawless. Unfortunately, words do little justice to describe the presentationand selection of the items that were presented to us for our dinner on thatnight, and it's with a painful process of elimination that only our absolutefavorite menu items have been singled out, to illustrate in the allotted spaceof this story, what a fine dining experience could be for anyone who wishes tofind out for themselves by visiting the InterContinental Hangzhou forthemselves。

  -by Rueben Marley。

  Service quality: very good

  Food quality: very good

  Environment: very good

  Price per head (RMB): 300-400

  Feature dish or menu: 

  crab tartar

  escargot farcie

  chestnut veloute

  grain fed wagyu beef tenderloin

  (作者:Rueben Marley  翻译:林若飞)

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