新浪尚品

　　许多读者朋友们可能也像我一样，留意过位于锦江饭店茂名路侧的“锦庐”餐厅招牌，却“不晓得”餐厅内会是个怎样的美食洞天。尽管在推门而入的那一刻，仍未知迎接自己的将是何种味觉体验，但通透的玻璃门厅却暗示我们，至少此处现代简约的装饰格调会让用餐轻松闲逸。餐厅分为两层，一层的餐位清爽紧凑，我们所在的二层用餐区不仅可以俯瞰一层的美景，几步之外还有个酒吧区。

食材的精心搭配

　　菜单涵盖了从家常小食到龙虾鲍鱼等多道中国名菜，熟悉这些菜品的人应该知道它们价格的巨大差距。丰富的菜品让你有足够的选择来享用一顿中档价位、人均消费在200块左右的大餐。在锦庐，情人约会足够浪漫，家庭聚会足够温馨，商务正餐足够高效、现代。

　　此番我们品尝的是店家精心挑选的春季特色菜，这些菜品并不在日常菜单之内。有些食客喜欢研究菜单，却毫不在意点什么餐，我就是其中之一。因此用一道美味的鹅肝酱做开胃菜也是个不错的惊喜。

鹅肝酱搭配的是精致清香的葱油饼

　　此鹅肝酱口味清爽、松软易涂，正合我的胃口。我们都品尝过许多种肉酱，也几乎都有自己的最爱；这道葡萄干点缀的鹅肝酱隐约有几丝甜意，已然成为我的最爱之一。微甜的鹅肝酱融合了醇厚酒香的余味，与之搭配的是精致清香的葱油饼。传统中式葱油大饼是公认的美食，而这些松脆美味的“微缩版”小面点用两根手指即可轻松夹取，更便于抹酱食用。对我来说，这道鹅肝酱葱油饼不仅是主餐前的开胃佳肴，更是令我成为锦庐回头客的重要原因。

蟹粉炖蛋

　　开胃菜一流，接下来的主餐更不会让人失望。第二道也是中国传统名菜蟹粉炖蛋。这道菜通常以各种汤碗为容器，而锦庐的厨师却用鸡蛋壳为我们呈上了这一美味：蛋壳的顶部已切掉，食客可以一勺勺地慢慢享用里面诱人的蟹肉与蛋花。

黄瓜炒腊肉

　　第三道菜是黄瓜炒腊肉，同样也不在菜单主食之列。乍看时，我们同样惊讶于它的“怪异”。厨师并未使用常见的中国黄瓜，而是选择了一种体积特别小(并非未成熟且比酸黄瓜更小)、味道有点奇特的小黄瓜。这道菜味道极美，稍有辣味，菜中的辣椒条来自两种辣度不同的红椒。若食客不喜辣又想享用这道菜，也很容易将这些辣椒条从菜中剔除。

油焖笋菜心

　　接下来是一道油焖笋菜心。由于我曾有过烹制竹笋失败的经历，所以对于那些能将竹笋发制软化并做成美味的人，我总是心怀敬意。用来烹饪竹笋的酱汁为这道菜的整体口感平添了不少中国风味。

　　最后一道主餐会让许多中国人联想到母亲亲手做的泡饭。这是一道西施响米泡饭，粥体清爽、粘稠适度。鲜美的海鲜丁加上点缀其中的各种蔬菜更让每一口都回味无穷。

　　餐厅的特色甜品为这顿诱人的中式美餐画上了完美的句号。同样是一道传统冰点，由各色时令新鲜水果与蜜豆覆盖着底层凉爽的冰沙。它的奇异之处在于端上餐桌时烟雾缭绕的幻景，这当然不是热气——盘中放有一小罐干冰。这道甜点一出现就成为当晚谈论的中心话题。

　　再回到那个老问题：请谁与我共享这些美味呢？首先当然是我的至爱，因为“要征服他/她的心，先征服他/她的胃”。而对于生意人，在这里宴请客户也十分合适：若是外国客户，锦庐可为其提供奇妙中餐的完美初体验；若是中国客户，这里也同样令人难忘。

　　我想，这里每位客人都会被餐厅对于传统中国菜的创新精神所打动。同样是中国菜，锦庐却处处暗含着一种特有的激情，体现了厨师对传统技法的理解与掌控，以及自己对中国菜的热情与探索。

　　餐厅服务同样一流。在我们即将用完上一道菜时，下一道会像变戏法般的呈现在我们面前。宽大的餐桌足以摆放多余的餐盘，上菜节奏亦掌握的十分完美。

　　菜品： 非常好

　　服务： 非常好

　　环境： 很好

　　人均： 200-300元

　　特色菜：葱油饼配鹅肝酱， 蟹粉炖蛋， 油焖笋菜心

　　地址： 上海茂名南路59号，锦江饭店北楼一层

　　电话： 021-64451717

　　Location

　　No.59, Maoming NanLu. // 上海茂名南路59号，锦江饭店北楼一层

　　My readers might also have seen theChinoise Storie entrance inset into the Mao Ming Road wall of the Jinjian Hotel(there is also an entrance from the hotel). Like me, they had no idea of whatculinary treasures there were within. As one opens the door, it is not clearwhat awaits. But the glass doors give us the first hint of a modern and simpledécor that sets the diners at ease. There are two floors, the first floor has anumber of tables are set in a clean minimal style. We sat on the second floorwith a pleasant view of diners below and a bottle’s throw from a nice bar areawith an impressive cave。

　　The menu includes many of China’s best knowndishes from the rices and noodles to the lobster and abalone. Those familiarwith these dishes also know the possible disparity in prices. There were enoughdishes to make select a moderately priced meal of some 200 kuai per person. Itis romantic for dating; cozy for family event; and efficient and modern for ‘abusiness meal。

　　We were treated to a special menuwhose dishes are not on the carte de jour and appreciated the care with whichthe plates were selected. I, for one, like to look over the menu but have noproblem with someone making the choices. So it was a pleasant surprise to beginwith a lovely pate。

　　The pate was prepared in the lightand spreadable form that I prefer. Pate, pate, pate, we have all had them andprobably have our favorites, but this was one topped with sprinkled raisinswhich hinted at the slight sweet flavor. It has now become one of my favorites.The pate with the touch of sweet that blended with the original hint of liquorwas accompanied by delicate little onion cakes. China has the traditional largeonion cakes we all love, but these were delicious and crispy cakes down-sizedto a spreadable piece easily held with two fingers. For me the pate with theonion cakes not only served as a great intro to the main courses, but would bemy primary reason for going back for another meal。

　　The entrée was superb and the maincourses that followed did not disappoint. The second course was also an old China favoritecrab and egg, usually served in a soup bowls of various types and sizes. Thechef presented us our delight in the egg shell itself. Its top was cut off topermit the diner to enjoy the crab and egg mouthwatering spoonful by spoonful.I’m hoping critique will include a picture of the dish。

　　Our third dish was a bacon andcucumber combination, again a take-off on a menu staple. At first glance, wewere surprised to see that it too was given its own twist. The chef did not usethe traditional Chinese cucumber but rather small (not immature and smallerthan Gherkins) little cucumbers with a slightly different taste. The dish wasextremely tasty, with a touch of spice supplied by the slices of two differenttypes of chilies, one less spicy than the other. For those who want to enjoythe dish without the kick, it was easy to set the chili slices apart。

　　Next we had some bamboo with greens.Since I have tried unsuccessfully to make bamboo shoots, I am always impressedby those who can soften them make them taste so good. The sauce in which theywere cooked added to the overall Chinese flavor of the dish。

　　The last main course would bringmany a Chinese’s to thoughts of breakfast with mum. It was a kind of seafoodcongee, with just enough liquid consistency to make it a soup. Tiny bits of thesea’s bounty and a sprinkling of vegetables added flavor to each mouthful。

　　The dessert was a fitting ending tothis appetizing Chinese meal. It too was a traditional jelly dish topped withfruits and sweet beans. A side dish of fresh fruits of the season rested on abed of ice. But the difference here was that it was brought to your tablesmoking, but not from the heat but rather from a small mini-pitcher with dryice. It was quite the conversation piece。

　　Again, who would I invite. Top onthe list would be the apple of my eye, for after all the way to a person’sheart is through his/her stomach. A businessman would do well to inviteclients. For a foreign client this would serve as an excellent introduction tofantastic Chinese cuisine. A Chinese business client would also be impressed。

　　Any guest could not fail but beimpressed with the creativity displayed in presenting traditional Chinesedishes. The dishes were Chinese but with a unique flare which speaks to a chefwho controls the more traditional style but is able to add his/her own flare。

　　The service was excellent. As if bymagic, our next course appeared just as we were finishing the previous one.While the table was big enough to accommodate the extra plates, the timing wasperfect。

　　-- by Salome Hernandez

　　Service quality: excellent

　　Food quality: excellent

　　Price per head (RMB)： 200-300

　　Environment: very good

　　(作者： Salome Hernandez 翻译： 孙祥)