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意味轩 品春美馔“意味”浓

http://www.sina.com.cn 2011年04月02日 15:06 Best Food in China美食中国网

  位于上海浦东丽思卡尔顿酒店的意大利餐厅Scena(意味轩),占据了上海标志性建筑国金中心(shanghai IFC)的52层。该中心地处陆家嘴核心地带,虽然它的闻名在于它的商贸而非美食,但高踞其内的Scena却堪称可满足多种消费需求的美食圣殿。这里可以俯瞰浦西外滩美景,享受餐厅一流服务。对于上海任何一位美食爱好者,Scena都不容错过。

意大利饺子意大利饺子

  步入上海浦东丽思卡尔顿酒店后,马上会有热情的服务生引你前往电梯。52楼瞬间可达,穿过富丽堂皇的门厅,经过造型亮丽、流光溢彩的玻璃吧台,眼前便是Scena餐厅。巨大的落地玻璃窗前餐位一字摆开,其余的餐桌椅则安排在高一阶的地台上。这种餐位设计使客人眼前的景色美不胜收:赫然耸立在眼前的是灯火辉煌的东方明珠塔;脚下是黄浦江内缓缓徐行的轮船;更远处是霓虹点点、宛若画中的浦西外滩——轻呷一口Cianti意大利葡萄酒,凝望此番美景,尽享悠然惬意。

芦笋汤芦笋汤

  吸引人们来此的主要原因其实并非只是美景那么简单,而是餐厅厨师们的美食烹饪理念。他们将传统意式烹饪的基本元素与现代技法中的创新改良巧妙地结合在一起,征服了无数顾客。出生于撒丁岛的Claudio Marras与酒店行政总厨Dietmar Spitzer通力合作,把当代美食的精细化追求与探索精神融入意大利顶级食材选择与传统烹饪技法之中,为客人提供了独特难忘的用餐体验。美景非易觅,佳肴更难寻,这无疑才是餐厅主要魅力之所在。此次我品尝的“赏味套餐”,即厨师最近为春季菜单推出的新品试吃,完美地诠释了这种融合的无限魅力。

  Scena的意大利经典美食异常丰富。最直观的证明是,侍者会倒上一碟配餐的进口特级原生橄榄油和黑醋,再以木盘端上现烤脆皮面包——这是每个意大利农家都必备的美味。菜单上各种进口美食赫然在目:新鲜的地中海龙虾、芦笋鳕鱼意饺、色深味浓的意式熏火腿薄片、番茄干与山羊乳酪。这些令人温暖愉悦的经典食材在厨师们精湛的厨艺与极富创意的改良之下,最终变成一道道奇妙诱人的菜品。

  鲜嫩的龙虾肉与茴香、香橙、黄瓜、生肉薄片搭配,饱满丰富的口感与风味相得益彰。餐盘底层是各种配菜,其上巧妙地摆放好切片的龙虾尾和芦笋,精美的造型甚至让我不忍动手破坏它的美感。但只须浅尝一口,就会让人把各种想法抛在脑后,沉醉于味蕾的欢愉中:在清爽淡雅的香橙与茴香的完美烘托下,龙虾肉味道更显纯正天然,浓郁的咸鲜使其恰好从配菜中脱颖而出,主辅食材搭配衬托,整道菜品如乐章般美妙和谐。

烤羊排烤羊排

  最得我心的创新菜恐怕要算羊排了。这道完美的菜品按照意式经典美食标准烹饪,焦脆的外皮颇具新意地洒满咖啡粉;浅粉色的内部肉质肥美、口感浓郁,且充满新鲜香草的味道。轻咬一口,从覆盖在外的咖啡粉、甜香酥脆的烤肉皮到里面鲜嫩的羊羔肉,无穷妙味在唇齿之间蔓延。毋庸置疑,Scena的厨师们已将意大利厨艺的发挥到极点。

精致甜点精致甜点

  一流的服务水准也为这里的用餐体验增色不少。上菜速度快而恰当,每道菜都可以配上黑胡椒和帕尔玛干酪;餐厅的侍者始终面带微笑,热情及时地为我添茶续水。餐厅多元化的功能也是一个很大的卖点。由于地处上海金融中心,此处是正式或非正式商务宴请的上佳选择;餐厅还体贴地设有儿童休闲区,又拥有怡人的美景、高品味的地道美食,因此也很适合家庭或朋友聚会。随着三月已出炉的新品菜单,Scena已无疑会继续保有上海首屈一指的欧洲顶级美食圣殿之桂冠。

  菜品: 非常好

  服务: 非常好

  环境: 非常好

  人均: 200-300

  地址:上海浦东新区世纪大道8号,上海国金中心(shanghai ifc)

  上海浦东丽思卡尔顿酒店52楼

  电话: (8621)20201717

  Location

  8 Shiji DaDao, FTC, The Ritz-CarltonShanghai, Pudong//浦东新区世纪大道8 号上海国金中心52楼丽思卡尔顿酒店. Tel:(8621)20201888

  Scena, the in-house Italian restaurant of The Ritz-Carlton Shanghai,Pudong, occupies the 52th floor of the iconic Shanghai ifc. Nestled in the beating heart ofLujiazui, an area more renowned for its business dealings than its fine dining,Scena is a bastion of culinary excellence catering for a variety of customers.With commanding views of the Puxi bund and impeccable service, a visit to Scenais an absolute must for lovers of food in Shanghai。

  Upon entering The Ritz-Carlton Shanghai, Pudong, one is instantly greetedby friendly hotel staff who usher you to the elevator. A quick flash up to the52th floor, into the plush entrance hall and past the elaborate and colourfullylit glass bar and you are in Scena. A raised seating ledge perches over therest of the tables lying next to the large, glass fronted windows. The viewthat this seating arrangement commands is stunning; looming large in front ofyou is the sparkling light of the Oriental Pearl Tower, below ships inch alongthe Haungpu, and the shimmer of the art deco Puxi bund is illuminated fordinners to peer at between sips of Cianti。

  But the scenery, perhaps surprisingly, is not the main draw for patrons. Itis the culinary vision of its head chefs, who so adeptly marry the rudiments ofItalian cooking with the most innovative developments in contemporarygastronomy that draw the crowds. Together, Sicilian born Claudio Marras andExecutive Chef Spitzer Dietmar fuse the fresh simplicity of Italy’s finestingredients and traditional cooking techniques with the nuances andexperimentation of modern haute cuisine for a unique and unforgettable diningexperience notwithstanding its surroundings. The tasting menu that I sampled, apreview of the Chefs’ latest creation for the Spring menu, exemplified thiswinning combination。

  Italian classics are in abundance. This is immediately apparent when thewaiter pours out a side dish of imported extra virgin olive oil, and places awooden platter of freshly baked crusty bread that would not be out of place foran Italian Paesan. The menu boasts a host of imported favourites; freshMediterranean Lobster, Asparagus and Cod Tortellini, a melange of thinlysliced, dark and rich prosciutto, sundried tomatoes and goats cheese. It is themanipulation of these fresh ingredients with inventive twists that turn thesewarming comfort classics into an exciting and sophisticated menu。

  The lobster, coupled with fennel, orange and cucumber carpaccio, is a dishbursting with complementary textures and tastes. Visually, the slices oflobster tail and claw placed on a bed of its partner ingredients make for an arrangementso delicate I am hesitant to disturb its aesthetic grace. A quick bite removesany lingering hesitation. The lobster, simply seasoned to allow itsdistinctively salty richness to shine through, interplays beautifully with thelightness and citrus zing of the orange and fennel leaving the dish singingwith flavour. Perhaps the most avant garde twist is the rack of lamb. It iscooked perfectly to the standards of the classic Italian favourite, withcrispy, singed skin and fresh herbs running through the deep, richly flavouredmeat, which is left slightly pink. The outside is ingeniously crusted withground coffee. Biting through the bitter sweetness of the crispy, coffeepeppered skin and into the tender meat, it is abundantly clear that Scena’s interpretationof Italian cooking has paid off。

  The dining experience is significantly enhanced by its strong waitingservice. Food arrived promptly and with a smile from the waiter, who alsooffered black pepper and parmesan with each dish, and zealously topped up mywater glass whenever it dipped below half way. Its versatility is also a hugeselling point. Its proximity to Shanghai’sfinancial centre make it an appealing spot for a business lunch, both formaland informal. But it is also family friendly, with a play area for children,and caters for leisure diners with its sweeping views and sophisticated yetrustic fare. With the new menu coming out by late March continuing Scena’swinning formula of culinary fusion, the restaurant is firmly at the forefrontof the most exciting European cuisine in the city。

  -- by William Murphey

  Service quality:  excellent

  Food quality:  excellent

  Price per head (RMB):  200-300

  Environment:  excellent

  (作者: William Murphey      翻译: 孙祥)

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