新浪尚文

　　变性者、易装癖者、无明显性别归属者是目前广告宣传活动和评论中的热门人物。

　　目前大热的男模是安德烈-皮吉斯，这位来自波黑的19岁金发模特看起来像是女人，没有其它方法可以用来形容他的外表。

安德烈-皮吉斯

安德烈-皮吉斯登杂志封面

　　他已被马克-雅可布广告宣传活动预约，和卡罗莱娜-科库娃一同出现在保罗-高缇耶的时装秀上。到目前为止，有“模特成就者”之称的史蒂文-梅塞、法国版和意大利版《Vogues》的摄影师墨特-阿拉斯- 和马可斯-皮戈特都为他拍过照片。

　　皮吉斯只是时尚界模糊性别界限运动的一部分，这不只是伪娘现象。28岁的Lea T是一位变性模特，她已获邀参加时尚界所有最佳广告宣传活动。T同意参加纪梵希秋季广告宣传活动协议的一部分是允许她谈论自己的变性人身份。当她的照片于五月份公布后，她的模特经纪公司Women接到了400个采访请求。

　　让T参加广告宣传活动是纪梵希创意总监提希的主意。T自17岁以来就一直作为称职模特为时装界工作。

　　T最近在接受《纽约时报》采访时称：“当你是变性人时，你展望未来，你看不到它。我认为这将是对另一位双性人所发出的一个好的信息‘看，我们可以与其他男孩和女孩一样。’这是很小的一步，但它使你觉得你有一些机会。一位变性人也许会打开一本杂志，说‘这很酷，我们可以成为我们想成为的人。’这是我参加纪梵希广告宣传活动的原因。”

　　马克-雅可布本人最近以伪娘的形象登上《Industrie》杂志封面。他说：“只要你穿上衣服后看起来非常棒，人们可以不去关心你的性别。”

　　Fashion blurs gender boundaries

　　Transsexuals, transvestites and models with no clear gender affiliation are all the rage in current advertising campaigns and editorials。

　　The male model of the moment is Andrej Pejic, a 19-year old blond from Bosnia and Herzegovina, who - and there's no other way to put it - looks like a woman。

　　He's just been booked to appear in the Marc by Marc Jacobs advertising campaign and can be seen alongside Karolina Kurkova for Jean Paul Gaultier. So far, he's been photographed by Steven Meisel - the model-maker - and Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott for French and Italian Vogues。

　　Gisele Bundchen stars as Balenciaga's androgynous poster girl

　　Pejic is part of a movement in fashion to blur gender boundaries. And it's not just about boys who look like girls. Lea T, 28, is a transsexual model booking all the best campaigns fashion has to offer right now。

　　Part of T's agreement to appear in Givenchy's fall advertising campaign was that she was allowed to talk about her transgender status. When the images appeared in May her modelling agency, Women, was overwhelmed with 400 requests to interview her。

　　It was Givenchy creative director Riccardo Tisci's idea to have T in the campaign; she has been working at the fashion house since she was 17 as a fit model。

　　"When you are a transsexual, you look for your future, and you can't see it," T told the New York Times in a recent interview. "I thought this would be a nice message for another tranny: 'Look, we can be the same as other girls and boys.' It's small, but it makes you feel like you have a little chance. Maybe a transsexual will open a magazine and think: 'That's cool. We can be whatever we want.' That's why I did the Givenchy campaign."

　　Marc Jacobs himself recently appeared on the cover of Industrie magazine in drag. Ditto, James Franco for Candy magazine - the first fashion magazine devoted to transgender issues。

　　Cator Sparks, revered New York men's fashion journalist, dandy and all-around fashion plate has been known to dressed in drag "back in the day", he says。

　　"This current trend of the lumberjack manly man has been done to death," he says. "Now going back to the aesthetic epitomised by the Calvin Klein One campaign, with lots of androgynous models, is a breath of fresh, ambiguous air。

　　"Jenny Shimizu [the model Angelina Jolie was rumoured to have an affair with] was in a lot of campaigns in the 1990s. No one could tell whether she was a man or a woman. Who cared?

　　"And to be more philosophical about it, we are growing as a people and as races and as cultures, it's OK to not care what your gender is as long as you look great in clothes."

　　But, of course, nothing in fashion is ever completely new. Todd Oldham used to use transvestite Billy Beyond in his fashion shows. Joey Arias, also a transvestite, modelled frequently for Thierry Mugler in the late 1980s and is still a fashion muse。

　　In the 1960s, April Ashley modelled for British Vogue and was photographed by David Bailey and Lord Snowden before her transsexual status was revealed in the tabloid press. Back then, it killed her career。

　　Then there was Candy Darling, who became an actress and muse to Andy Warhol and, a decade later, transgender model and muse to Stephen Sprouse, Teri Toye. The "It" girl of the 1990s was Connie Girl, also a transsexual。

　　"The only thing I am irritated about with the current trannies, is that they are not camp enough," says Sparks. "If you are going to be a gender bending femme fatale, come on give me some fake eyelashes and red glitter lips!

　　"I think every man should wear a pair of high heels once in his life. We have to know how the other half lives."

　　(每日电讯报)

　　(解雨)