新浪尚文

　　使所有人对巴宝莉(BURBERRY) 丑陋的鞋子感到不满的可能原因是激进形状的鞋子已成为过去时了。米兰的设计师已在时尚界排除了硬边，放下了底边。鞋子根据服装的风格和比例而制作。手袋也不再像过去那样成为无处不在的装饰物或者要求在人行道上获得自己的位置。

　　在缪西娅-普拉达的一串香蕉秀中展示了条纹手握晚宴包和四四方方的帆布包。玛丽简氏的厚底鞋也出现了与服装相配套的条纹，从某些角度来看，它们看起来是帆布便鞋或街舞鞋的混合物。大而圆的太阳镜带着滑稽的螺旋形。如果这些条纹和来回摆动的猴子使你认为那是一种思想控制的新方法，普拉达也提供了外表很好看的厚底鞋，分别使用银色和金色皮革。

　　D & G’花园主题系列生产了天真风格的厚底鞋和大的帆布手提包。阿尔伯特-菲尔蒂品牌展示了平的皮凉鞋，上面装饰有绳结。

　　尽管Gucci看起来像是镀金的，但在弗里达-贾娜妮的配饰本季看起来更加独立。一个奶油色的皮包，虽然体积不大，但由于单色饰带和编织才质而引人注目。流苏是一种统一的装饰物，出现在青铜手包，并挂在腰带挂钩上。高根凉鞋的颜色则是青绿色与金色蛇纹的混合，或者是蜥蜴踝带鞋和暴露在外的金属细鞋根。

　　Stepping Back From Towering Heels

　　Perhaps what made everyone sore about Burberry’s mean heels is that aggressive footwear looks passé. With Milan’s designers removing the hard edges in fashion, and dropping hemlines, shoes have taken on proportions and tones to suit. Handbags, too, are not sprouting as much ornament as in the past or demanding their own place on the sidewalk。

　　In Miuccia Prada’s bunch-of-bananas show, there were stripey clutches and boxy canvas bags. The platform Mary Janes also came with stripes, to match the clothes; from certain angles they suggested a fusion with espadrilles or hip-hop sneakers. Big, round sunglasses came with zany spirals. If all those stripes and wiggly monkeys strike you as a new form of Manchurian mind control, Prada also offered a very handsome looking pair of platforms in braided silver and gold metallic leather。

　　D & G’s garden theme produced a na?ve style of platforms, along with big canvas totes. Alberta Ferretti showed flat leather sandals with rope ties。

　　Despite a gilded look at Gucci, the accessories in Frida Giannini’s show looked more discrete this season. A cream-colored bag, modest in size, stood out for its monochromatic detailing and braided textures. Tassels were the unifying ornament, appearing on metallic bronze clutches and dangling from cord ties of belts. High-heeled sandals combined colors like turquoise with a gold snakeskin or lizard ankle strap and an exposed metal stiletto heel。

　　Of all the Milan collections, though, Fendi offered the most coherent display of fashion and accessories, and perhaps, in the end, the most desirable. As a balance to Karl Lagerfeld’s long dresses in cotton and silk, platform shoes appeared to be divided in blocks, with cork and wood in the mix, and had leather straps in both neutrals and bright colors. The other option was a sandal with a wide silk-satin band over the foot—again, in a contrasting color. Belts and bags (modest in size and softly structured, with handles) also told a color-blocking story. Linked bracelets, worn in sets of different colors and size, supported the lighter attitude。

　　(纽约时报)

(解雨)